About five kilometers inland from the coast the Fueguia Botany, this fifty-acre plot overflows with a wide spectrum of botanical varieties

Fueguia 1833: sourcing and transparency in contemporary perfumery

Fueguia 1833 originated from a desire to encapsulate South American culture, history, and landscapes within a line of fragrances produced in Milan. The brand’s identity springs from a confluence of traditional craftsmanship and modern innovation, demonstrated by significant investments in extraction machinery and by a commitment to charting every step of the supply chain. At the heart of this endeavor is a persistent focus on the complexities of aromatic molecules, treated with a keen eye toward both scientific inquiry and creative expression.

An intuitive beginning

Before entering the perfume industry, founder and perfumer Julian Bedel had no formal grounding in the commercial side of fragrance. Instead, his early education involved scrutinizing wood, flowers, oils, and roots to identify recurring molecular relationships. “Working with molecules sometimes means you ignore the name or origin of a material,” Bedel says. “Clarity appears when you interpret their semiotics, which is why blending plants can heighten the layers of a scent.” His method remains rooted in a background steeped in Argentina’s natural environment. Having grown up on a family-owned expanse of two thousand hectares in Entre Ríos, Bedel was exposed from an early age to diverse native species. Caring for animals and plants before dawn and after dusk gave him the chance to observe nature’s intricacy firsthand.

The Uruguay research base

Fueguia 1833’s research and development work finds a home in Uruguay, about five kilometers inland from the coast. Known as Fueguia Botany, this fifty-acre plot overflows with a wide spectrum of botanical varieties—citrus, vetiver, iris, marcela, and acacia, among others. Bedel, recalling the days spent on his family’s land, established this center in 2016 as a place to delve deeper into fermentation and other natural processes. Here, the brand experiments with extraction methods, including a supercritical CO₂ system that allows ingredients to be distilled at lower temperatures. This not only forgoes the use of solvents but also pinpoints the molecular peaks and concentrations within any given plant.

From fermentation to complementary elements

Whether the main ingredient is tobacco, cacao, or oud, fermentation can push the number of volatile molecules beyond what can be found in an unfermented wood or flower. A typical wood might contain around 80 different molecules, and a flower roughly 150, but fermentation can bring that to 300. “Recognizing which compounds will be compatible with each other is all about mapping a plant’s molecular pattern,” Bedel explains. In other words, layering plants with overlapping or analogous molecular structures can boost a fragrance’s sophistication without overshadowing the original ingredient’s essence.

Milan’s integrated production site

While Fueguia 1833’s conceptual heart can be traced to Argentina and Uruguay, the entire manufacturing process is anchored in Milan. There, a 1,000-square-meter facility handles quality control, allergen studies, pesticide analysis, extraction, and purification. An additional 500-square-meter space is devoted to fashioning wood elements for displays, packaging, and custom furniture. Essential oils are fused with ethanol and emollients, then move through maceration, maturation, and filtering stages until they reach the bottling line. Each bottle is engraved, filled, and sealed prior to packaging. In March 2021, Fueguia 1833 allocated 2.5 million euros to new hardware for its R&D department, capitalizing on industrial automation incentives.

Technology, precision, and investment

These acquisitions included gas chromatography, mass spectrometry, and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Such tools measure the evolution of specific compounds—like boswellic acids from the resins of Boswellia sacra, B. frereana, or B. serrata—across different fermentation periods. They also help evaluate the terpene content in incoming materials, checking for vetiverol in vetiver or patchulol in patchouli, while monitoring allergen and pesticide levels. The company’s R&D team is refining an ethanol extraction method that operates at -80°C. Under these conditions, ethanol becomes more selective, leaving out chlorophyll and waxes, and enabling the production of powerfully concentrated botanical extracts. “We recycle the ethanol,” Bedel explains, “and the leftover wax goes into our candles. It’s a form of technological exploration that may not yield immediate profit, but it expands our capacity for experimentation.”

Appreciating the ‘vintage’ fragrance

One day, Bedel noted that a newly blended fragrance smelled distinct from a batch bottled one or two years before. Over time, ethanol mellows, letting the scent reach a more polished state. This realization led to the introduction of vintage editions. “Beginning in 2016, we started saving 10-15% of our output so we could release it years later. We generally let these batches rest for five years, then package them with special labels once they’ve aged.”

Automation and creative spontaneity

Despite the meticulous scientific focus, Bedel’s creative approach can be surprisingly direct. He drafts formulas in a spreadsheet or on paper, adjusting proportions before transferring them to a machine that automatically weighs and blends the 150 ingredients used in certain fragrances. This process streamlines production without reducing the artistry behind each scent. Recently, Fueguia 1833 secured a device that captures a plant’s volatile molecules in situ. By replicating the precise olfactory fingerprint in a lab, they can recreate aromas without harvesting large quantities of raw materials.

Sustainability in practice

While many in the fragrance industry tout sustainability, Fueguia 1833 aims to embody it at every level. Their facilities run on wind power, and they avoid musks known to harm aquatic life. “Sustainability is not something we struggle with,” Bedel says. “It’s the natural direction for us, and it’s also cost-effective in the long run.” Recycling is deeply ingrained in their operations: leftover scraps from Picea abies (European spruce) are transformed into boxes for the final product and repurposed to outfit their Milan boutique. Typically, this type of wood is reserved for stringed musical instruments, but Fueguia 1833 ensures any offcuts find a second life.

Challenges across an evolving industry

Although scientific progress has made it possible to track and identify an ever-greater range of chemical constituents, widespread transformation within the perfume sector remains elusive. Sourcing materials, tracing supply chains, enforcing fair wages, and mitigating environmental impact continue to be stumbling blocks. “Consumers often aren’t aware of what goes on behind a fragrance,” Bedel comments. “Big corporations are guided by profit and respond primarily to demand. If buyers don’t question or alter their purchasing habits, we can’t expect sweeping changes.” This lack of accountability stems from an industry culture that, for many years, has relied on secrecy. Fueguia 1833’s transparent approach stands in contrast to conventional norms, actively involving the customer in understanding the life cycle of each product.

Expanding a global presence

Fueguia 1833’s retail footprint now spans Milan, New York (Madison and Soho), Tokyo (Roppongi and Ginza), London (within Harrods), Buenos Aires, and José Ignacio in Uruguay. These stand-alone spaces operate as “galleries,” exhibiting not just the scents themselves but also the raw ingredients and processes behind them. Meanwhile, the brand partners with selected distribution channels to further its accessibility.

A nod to textiles: fragrances for denim, linen, silk, and wool

Among Fueguia 1833’s more recent lines are scents inspired by different fabrics, including denim, linen, silk, and wool. Rather than simply resting atop clothes, these fragrances become an integrated part of the garment, releasing their notes gradually as the material moves. Indigo, for instance, is a green aromatic blend formulated with geranium, mint, and marjoram, making it a natural match for denim pieces. Following that release, the brand introduced Seda, an amber floral fragrance built around jasmine grandiflorum, jasmine sambac, and amber. Initially sold solely at Harrods, Seda has now reached the Milan and New York boutiques, giving a broader audience the chance to experience its luxurious silk-inspired profile.

This twofold emphasis on innovation and mindful resource management is emblematic of Fueguia 1833’s long-term vision. By pushing the boundaries of molecular analysis, experimenting with novel extraction techniques, and championing an ethical approach to manufacturing, the brand aligns its creative impulses with an underlying respect for natural ecosystems. In this sense, Fueguia 1833 aims not merely to craft distinctive fragrances but also to set a benchmark for traceability and responsibility within the perfume industry.